Atco 1960s lawnmower

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Trantm
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Atco 1960s lawnmower

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone can help identify the Atco lawnmower below?  I believe it is early 1960s.  It has a pull start but this is not a recoil pull.  The machine does not have any identification plates/numbers.  Also if anyone has a manual for this machine please advise.  Any thoughts/comments greatfully received.

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

 

 

Trantm
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Sorry pictures didn't load...

Sorry pictures didn't load.....

Trantm
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I did notice the model number

I did notice the model number is 4s24.  Assuming that is 4stroke 24” but I cannot find this model mentioned anywhere else.  I have engine details if that would help also.

wristpin
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That 4s24 model number is a

That 4s24 model number is a bit unusual. Atco machines  of that era had numbers such as F10 for a 1960 20"  and H5 for a 1960 24"

I have an illustrated parts manual for an H5 which is a fairly good match for your machine, except that it has a kick start as well as a wrap around pulley.  The engine on your machine is a Villiers, possibly a Mk10 or Mk12 but as was Atco's way in those days the parts book did not acknowledge that it was a bought in engine and gave all the parts an Atco part number.

I will scan the H5 manual and post a link to it in the next couple of days. 

Trantm
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Many thanks in advance

Many thanks in advance wrestpin for posting the manual.  

I had read the information on this website about naming conventions of post war Atco lawnmowers and I also thought 4s24 was odd.  I will post a picture of this model number and the engine number later today.  I can only assume the module number plate is original.

I too had only seen similar models with a kick start and a wrap around pulley but mine just as the wrap around pulley.

I can attach a trail seat to this lawnmower and apart from Ebay do you know where I could find one?  It has to the be a trail seat from the same era for a 24".

Thanks again,

wristpin
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1960 H5 manual

1960 H5 manual

https://www.dropbox.com/s/owbvbl7n7wqsvxy/Atco%20H5%2024%2019600001.pdf?...

Suggest that you print out as at some point I will remove the link.

Most Atco of that era would have had an ID tag under one of the right-hand chassis tie bar bolts but as is the way of things they get removed when the machine is repainted. etc 

Seat. I think that your machine would have had a simple single drawbar seat rather than the later Autosteer one. The online auctions are good for nationwide coverage but local collective machinery sales are also useful and an item such as the seat won't cost a fortune.

Trantm
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Thanks again - I have printed

Thanks again - I have printed this document off.  

 

Please see below the photos of the model number and engine plate.  

 

 

 

 

Trantm
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Please see below the photos

Please see below the photos of the model number and engine plate. 

 

 

I have a small fuel leak that I need to address.  When the fuel line is turned on the fuel leak from the area highlighted below.  Guessing this is an easy fix but any ideas of the best / simplest way to address?  It leaks when the machine is running.

Lastly if I wanted to get this machine professional serviced (live in south Northamptonshire) does anyone on the forum do servicing + live in the area?

 

Thanks again,

Mark

wristpin
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There should be a fibre

There should be a fibre washer each side of th banjo. A slight issue is that assorted packs of fibre washers tend to be in metric sizes and not quite a good fit on old imperial stuff - a little careful work with a file may be needed. Alternatively look at suppliers of vintage motorcycle parts on a certain auction site. I get small packets of imperial fibre washers from that source. Also look at www.VilliersParts.co.uk.

 

Trantm
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Thanks again wristpin.  Is

Thanks again wristpin.  Is the banjo the brass connector that links to the fuel line?

Mark

 

wristpin
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Banjo. Yes the pipe connector

Banjo. Yes the pipe connector, one fibre washer each side.

Trantm
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I am assuming the model no.

I am assuming the model no. 4S24 dosn't mean much to you?  Lastly if I wanted to learn more on maintaining the machine are there any manuals that you can advise of?

Mark

 

wristpin
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Think that its safe to say

Think that its safe to say that the 24 refers to the width of cut but as to the 4S, I cant relate it to anything. As far as I know, Atco only produced Owners handbooks - some more comprehensive than others. I believe that Haynes produced a general manual but I've never seen it and at one time Readers Digest did one, but from memory, it mainly featured a Suffolk Colt / Punch. 

I'll have a look and see what I have, but not very hopeful. 

Just found this but is may only cover smaller domestic machines.

https://www.worldofbooks.com/motor-lawnmowers-owner-s-workshop-manual-by...

This is for a slightly later machine than yours

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9xfxet5uas966as/Atco%20User%20manual%20HD%2020...

Trantm
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Brilliant I will take a look.

Brilliant I will take a look.  

I have ordered the fiber washes to correct the fuel leak.  I also bought a Villiers MK10 manual.  If you wanted a copy for your records let me know.  I think the ignition cut out strip was missing on the back of the magneto also so I ordered one.  Hopefully I can fit this without taking the magneto apart - any thoughts?

I assumed the '4s' stood for 4 stroke.  Silly question but I have been using normal unleaded petrol.  Given the machine is 1962 (ish) is that the best option?  Should I be mixing in a little oil to help the running Eg 10ml of oil for 1/2 petrol for the Villiers Mk10 (98cc)?

When cleaning the air filter again is correct / best practice to wash in petrol and dip in engine oil?

Mark

wristpin
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I would stick with just

Unleaded fuel . The Mk 10 has valve seats cut into the relatively soft cylinder block material so there is a minimal risk of seat recession due to the lack of lead, but I doubt if the engine will ever get hot and bothered enough to suffer. I would stick with just petrol but if you are worried about any detrimental effects of the unleaded, just add some lead substitute - available from Halfords etc. 

Cut out strip. If the bolt holding it comes through from the inside of the magneto, you may be able to carefully remove the nut and fit the strip without losing the bolt, but..........!!. 

Air filter. If that filter body contains a coiled up strip of wire mesh, washing and re-oiling is the way to go. 

Chris G
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Lastly if I wanted to get

Lastly if I wanted to get this machine professional serviced (live in south Northamptonshire) does anyone on the forum do servicing + live in the area?

There is a place in North Beds someone recommend to me, but I have not used them, so much more rewarding doing as much you can yourself :-)

Trantm
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I agree Chris that it is far

I agree Chris that it is far more rewarding to do yourself.  I have the Mk 10 engine manual now so hope I can build up my knowledge.  

Wristpin - I replaced the 2 filter washers (in red below) but the the issue I have is that the banjo bolt does not full tighten with 2 washes (both are thin) the bolt just turns and turns.  If I only use 1 washes the bolt tightens and there is no fuel leaking.  Question is - am I okay to use just the one and I will not cause any issues by doing this?  There is no washers on the closest to the bolt.

 

brilliant service from villiersparts.co.uk btw

 

 

Chris G
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Mark, if the banjo bolt does

Mark, if the banjo bolt does not catch the thread to tighten just because of the addition of a few mm of gasket washers, I would assume the banjo bolt is not of the correct length or more likely, the start of the thread in the aluminum carb is stripped, something you could inspect? If it is fuel tight with just one washer I guess the problem is solved, but there can't be much of the banjo bolt threaded in..

Trantm
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I did notice in the thread of

I did notice in the thread of the banjo bolt there looked to be bits of metal.  After reading your reply I am now assuming these bits of metal are from the thread inside the carb.  Will therefore run it as is until the reaming thread inside the carb goes.  At this point will the carb need replacing entirely?.

Thanks, Mark

 

wristpin
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If its fuel-tight without the

If its fuel-tight without the outer washer I would just go with it and remember only to just pinch it up in the future and make a habit of turning the tank tap off when returning the machine to the shed or garage. Then just keep an eye on your favourite auction site etc for a replacement at the right price.

Trantm
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Villiersparts.co.uk can re

Villiersparts.co.uk can re-thread the carb so I may do that as I think the banjo bolt was also missing the filter.

I would have to send the carb to them - are they easy to remove and are specialist tools needed?

Alternatively a new carb is £30 which I would buy but am keen to keep the original if I can.

thanks as always,

Mark

 

wristpin
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No special tools or knowledge

No special tools or knowledge required!