flywheel bearing for ransomes auto certes?
Well,
the restoration of the auto certes has hit a slight snag. well... more than a slight snag. Have started a bodywork strip down ready for coatings. had to remove the engine and in the process had to cut 2 bolts clean off as they had seized and would not take any form of manipulation. thank god for a 4-1/2" grinder and a 1mm inox cutting disc.
As the engine's now off, I had the chance to do a clean up and check everything's ok. however, there was a problem. on the flywheel with the 2 clutch shoes and springs, there's a central bearing to support the shaft. this is completely worn out and damaged. I attempted to extract it but it had stuck solid to the flywheel bore leaving the outer bearing sleeve in place..
The two issues I'm having a heck of a lot of grief with are:
1: flywheel will not come off drive shaft, even with penetrant spray and a blow torch / shock work, etc. it's stuck fast (bolt removed)
2: I now have to replace the bearing. would anyone know if it's the same bearing as used on the cylinder (RL5) if so then that's a weight of my shoulders.
Unfortunately, due to a cowboy who previously serviced the auto certes, I've had to do a lot of critical repairs, replacements and restoration of some bodywork. this is the stressful bit and this weekend's been no fun due to being woken up by druggies fighting outside our home. two nights on the go. so my concentration isn't at it's best.
any advice on the bearing replacement would be greatly appreciated.
cheers.
lew
Forums
Auto Certes centrifugal clutch
Yes, it is an RL.5 bearing. In the absence of an internal bearing puller, if you have an arc or mig welder running a bead round the inside of the outer race is the way to go.Levering it out is the last resort!
If you need to remove the flywheel, and assuming you have a Villiers/BSA Sloper engine. shocking it off the tapered shaft is favorite but needs to be done with care. If it's a later machine with a BS or Kubota engine it will be a parallel shaft just needing a straight pull. To remove a flywheel from a tapered shaft ,slacken but don't remove the flywheel retaining bolt and then enlist assistance and support the flywheel BOSS on something really solid then get a large diameter drift (at least half an inch in diameter) and hold it against the boss opposite the support and then smack it good and hard with a club hammer. You may have to repeat this treatment turning the flywheel through 90 degrees each time.Stout gloves and safety glasses are a good idea! When re-fitting the flywheel both the male and female tapers should be clean and dry - not greased or oiled.
If you have not already discovered it the clutch drum has an Allen screw in its boss which when slackened allows the drum to be pulled back away from the flywheel - gives a better view for for aligning the shaft with the bearing on re-assembly!
Cheers guys. great info. I've
Cheers guys. great info. I've uncovered some info that's blown me away. this makes this job a game changer and more exciting. yep it's an RL5 so have ordered it along with the 2 rl5 blade bearings. will be with me end of the week.
After consultation with a senior engineer at ransomes this morning, my P.A reading out the machine serial, etc, let's just say, I've struck gold. it's an auto certes MK6 and with the serial, I found out it's history and what it was ordered with. wow now we're talking.
will sort out the outer bearing ring in the next day or two and also the flywheel. will take a short while knowing me lol. anyway back to paperwork and some measurement specs.
lew
CRACKING NEWS! just been in
CRACKING NEWS!
just been in the workshop today, after a day off yesterday dealing with phone calls, etc. have finally sorted everything out on the engine.
here's what happened:
1: exhaust derusted and cleaned,
2: engine cleaned,
3: magneto flywheel repaired (several teeth damaged before it arrived with me) now balanced and cleaned.
4: flywheel removed after 1/2 hour and a bit of heat. didn't realise there was a washer in there, popped out with a bit of heat. then flywheel popped out with a little careful shot with my forming hammer. what a huge relief.
5: outer bearing left in flywheel successfully removed with a nice long demolition screwdriver and forming hammer.
6: flywheel derusted and polished ready for spraying.
7: engine, carb and recoil starter assembly sprayed and drying.
8: cylinder sprayed Cherry red and now hardening for 24 hours before it goes for a grind.
LIST OF JOBS STILL TO DO:
1: re spray main chassis and handle. Also flywheel, tank, drive guard and engine cowl.
2: install new bearing into flywheel after installing on engine. install clutch shoes and connect to drive.
3: assemble cylinder cassette and re-install to auto certes.
4: Full component grease for chains, sprockets and bearings as well as drive clutch plate.
5: final adjustments to machine.
6: fabrication of original grass box from specifications provided by Ransomes.
7: Road test and advertise for sale.
So... a busy couple of weeks ahead for me. All for the love of a certain little petrol mower. I must be mad. either that or in need of a good woman.
lew
flywheel bearing for ransomes auto certes?
Hello,
I am not sure but I think that the clutch flywheel is mounted on to a taper this would explain the tight fit you will need to use a puller and possibly shock treatment as well to release it. The bearing is as you suspect an RL5, to remove the old outer race can you hook small heel bar behind it and lever it out? Alternatively carefully run a weld around the bearing track of the outer race this will shrink the bearing allowing it to come out.
There is a parts list for the Auto-Certes available to view on Ransomes Jacobsen's web site,
Support/Manuals/Models out of production - then select Auto-certes from drop down list.
http://www.ransomesjacobsen.com/europe-manuals/SearchForm?locale=en_us&…