Hi to All,
I have just been given an ATCO 20" Model 2058. I have the original instructions booklet, and the machine is in running order, though the cylinder reel andbedknife badly need sharpening.
It has a what appears to be a Villiers Mk.12 kick start engine, it is hard to see the numbers as the data plate affixed to the engine is painted ATCO green and has the ATCO logo and the words 'Four Stroke' transfer applied to it.
My question is; is this engine correct for this model, as there is no reference to it in the manual....I have read here it may have been the Mk.7. I live in New South Wales, Australia. Here's some pics.
Kindest regards, Darryl
Hi, yes that is the correct engine, the Villiers mark 7 engine was used on smaller domestic machines. I take it you got 2058 from a brass tag fastened to the machine, this means 20" cut made in 1958. The machine appears to be in a very good original state of preservation.
Thanks heaps for posting such a prompt reply...now my personal quest begins....to restore, renovate or conserve....it sure lokks like it could do with a re-paint!
Kindest regards, Darryl
Too good and original to mess with - enjoy it as it is! If it needs preserving in a dry climate a wipe over with an oily rag or a "Waxoyl" product will be all that's needed.
When that style of fuel tank was in common use on various Atco machines we would sometimes find fuel seeping out from behind the fixing bracketss which were spot welded on to the ends of the tank. Vibration would start small cracks out of sight around the weld. Our solution was to de-gas the tank and seam braze right round the brackets.
Thanks wristpin for your reply; at this time, I will take your advice and leave the machine as is and preserve it....I will also check the fuel tank for any leaks or cracks. Thanks for the heads-up!
Parts here in Oz are very thin on the ground for early ATCO's...I have also been given advice to use a rope to start the machine, as if I break the alloy kick starter, they are almost impossible to replace.
I also need advice on how to remove the cylinder reel and soleplate/bedknife so as I can take them to the engineer/machinist for re-sharpening....
Also does any member here know of a workshop manual being available for this model ATCO?
By the way, I am also the global moderator of a website that is dedicated to the repair and maintenance of all types of outdoor power equipment..mowers, chainsaws, etc... http://www.outdoorking.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
If interested, please check it out.
Kindest Regards, Darryl.
Hi, it is fairly easy to remove the cylinder & bottomblock, but before you do, check with whoever is going to grind them if they have an insitu grinder, no point in taking out the cylinder if they can grind it in the frame.
Anyway, first thing arm yourself with a set of BSF/Whitworth spanners
Remove the chainguard and then the chains going to the cylinder, I would suggest putting the connector back onto one end of each chain as it stops you losing the clip.
Remove the grass delivery plate (concave, deflector or whatever you want to call it)
Undo the cylinder adjusting screws at each end of the block, then remove the two retaining bolts from the block, one at each end near the base of the sideplate, the bottomblock assy should now drop out, though you may have to give it a tap or two.
At this point, if you can get it ground insitu and the cylinder bearings have absolutely no play, you can take it to be ground.
To remove the cylinder, first undo the the retaining bolt at the drive end, remove the sprocket etc making note how it all goes together. Now undo & remove the three bolts/nuts at the drive end and the three bolts at the other end, the cylinder should now drop out, again it may need to be persuaded.
To remove the bearings from the cylinder, the easiest way is with two stout levers but watch out for the two washers at each end under the bearings (one large and one 'shim' at each side)
Just reverse the procedure to rebuild the machine.
Hi Hortimech, and many thanks for your prompt reply.
I will remove as suggested and take both to the engineer. Unfortunately he can't grind the reel in situ, and as the reel has no paint and has surface rust, I will have it blasted and powder-coated in 'signal red' or a colour that closely matches the clutch, before the grind; which will stop any rust in future.
If you will permit me another question, could anyone tell me the original diameter of the wooden front rollers as they also appear to be worn also. Any thoughts on this? Should I have some new ones turned up?
Kindest Regards, Darryl