Webb 430E (without the E)... And filter foam query
Hello All, this is my first post.
I bought a Webb 430E this morning and after a carb-strip, she's running; hooray !
I need 2 things for her-
First the air-filter foam turned to dust in my hand.
Can I get a replacement filter? If not, is their a source for the foam so I can cut my own ?
Second, I was disapointed when turning the key didn't produce an electric start.
The reason, I soon discovered, was the absence of a battery.
Can anyone edvise me of a suitable battery to fit ?
Thanks in advance,
Can't visualise a 430E - what engine? if it's a Briggs and Stratton there will be no problem with a new air filter sponge. If Tecumseh it could be a bit more difficult but there is plenty of pattern stuff around. Webb were part of the Atco, Qualcast group owned by Bosch and in latter days used an "in house" Tecumseh based engine. Here again pattern filters are available.
The battery was probably a dry cell type from an outside supplier such as Gates which is likely to be still available. Suggest that you have a look at the Central Spares website.
If you can post an image of the machine it may jog the memory!
I think it is probably a Webb diplomat 430e aka 17" Suffolk super punch fitted with the tecumseh engine, but as you say Wristpin, a photo will soon clear up any confusion.
Thanks for your thoughts and I'd be very happy to post a picture....
... when I can work out how to do it (!)
I don't see an 'attach' or 'upload picture' function in the toolbar.
Any hints very welcome.
The engine has no branding on it, so I think you're right about it being 'in-house'...
It's labelled Webb Diplomat 430E.
The carb's a Dellorto, and the air-filer casing (black plastic) is marked 'Dellorto F48'...
I have some nice pictures, but I'm failing to find an 'attach' button/icon. Duh !
Not surprised that you are a bit flummoxed it's not the most intuitive of systems!
The "add image" button is the left hand one on the second line - think that it's a minute image of a house.
That brings up a box with "browse server" on it. Read that as browse your puter where you store images.
That brings up yet another box with "upload" near the top left.
Click that and you will get another request to browse your server - that is an instruction to go to your stored image on your puter. Highlight the image and so long as your image is within the correct size (number of pixels)* for the forum, click "open" which will return you to the previous screen where you click "upload" in the browse box followed by "insert the file" followed by OK !!!!!
And hopefully the result will be something like this!
Now someone will tell both of us that there is an easier way of doing it! Always willing to learn.
* If you get a message saying that the image is too large you will need to "re-size" it. Tight click on the thumbnail of your image and a box will come up with a number of options. Click on "edit" and your screen will probably be filled with a portion of the image , along th top you will get another box with a "resize" option, click on it and it will offer resizing by both as a pixel size or to reduce it as a percentage of the original. Try say reducing it to 25% of the original and then saving it and trying to post it again. You can always play around with the percentages up as well of down and down.
There are re-sizing applications for bulk resizing of multiple images but I usually use the above. Should say that all the foregoing applies to a PC - Macs are possibly different!
Just occurred to me that if you store your images "on the cloud" eg Dropbox, Imageshack etc it will all be a bit different !!!
I think that I may have found the air-filter:-
I assume this is applied 'dry' i.e. I don't oil it with filter oil, as I do my motorbikes (?)
Speakig of oil, I drained the oil.
There's no dipstick, so again, I assume I fill it to the top of the (almost horizontal, well shallow-angle anyway) filler hole.
Straight 30 weight oil ?
I am enjoying this project.
I can see a ride-on comign soon...
Yes, SAE 30 or 10/30 to the top of the filler.
Think that the recommendation for the air filter was "lightly oiled with engine oil", ie dose with oil, wrap in rag and squeeze out the surplus.
Battery was probably a six cell pack from Gates or whoever the favoured supplier was at the time . Only needed for electric starting - not running. Central Spares still do one pt no 25134 but £40 + vat! You can possibly find a suitable substitute from a battery specialist at a more palatable price!
Sorry Wristpin, I cannot agree with you there, the engine fitted is an aluminium Suffolk engine and should only be filled with a SAE30 grade oil, 10w30 is too thin and will get past the rings and breather and make the engine look like it is on its last legs due to the blue smoke the engine will produce.
The easiest way to ensure that the engine is filled with the correct amount of oil is to run the engine to warm up the oil, then drain it completely, now put exactly 1/2pt of oil into the engine.
Can only say that my data sheet for the ally lump says 30 or 10/30 + fill to top of threads and if it's good enough for the manufacturers .......... !
I can only say that from experience, when the users used to complain about them burning oil, 99% of them had been topping them up with the same stuff that they were putting in their cars, 10w30. Draining this and refilling with SAE30 usually cured the oil burning problem. A similar thing used to happen with the old K series Kohler cast iron engines, you wouldn't believe just how much oil these would burn if run on 10w30.
I wouldn't disagree with any of what you say , my point was what the manufacturers said was permissible. As you no doubt know, Briggs have always said a straight detergent SAE 30 or 10/30 if the 30 is not available. But again, as you say, at the expense of increased oil consumption in "summer" conditions. I have experienced "just serviced" Briggs engines with 30 in them in winter that have been so stiff that they have refused to start - but that's another story!
Briggs used to list what oil to use by temperature, they only recomended 10w30 in cold conditions, but you would never use a lawnmower in the winter - the grass doesn't grow, hence during the cutting season the temperature would be warmer and SAE30 should be used.
Yep, I have read the manual! But ride-on owners do use them for hauling logs, shifting horse muck etc and many of my former customers did this in the depths of winter so these machines were returned with 10/30 and the owners advised appropriately. Horses for courses you might say!