Ransomes Marquis MK5.

There is a MK4 manual on the site: https://www.oldlawnmowerclub.co.uk/sites/default/files/opmanual/19710H%…

Apart from the engine and throttle control it will be compatible with your machine.

Have you tried slackening the cylinder to bottom blade adjustment ? it might just be sett too hard on.

If you have to remove the cutter unit, your biggest problem will be removing the sprocket that is screwed on to the cylinder. This is screwed on with a left hand thread (opposite way to normal) and you will need a chain wrench or similar to turn it without damaging it. Other than that, just remove the grass plate (aka concave or deflector) from behind the the cylinder and remove the two bolts at either side of the unit and it should just drop out.

Thanks Hortimech, I'll have a look through that manual.

I haven't tried slackening off the cylinder adjuster yet but yes that's definitely a possibility.

Okay great. Thanks for the info on the cutting unit removal.

The rear rollers seized on the shaft was possibly the worst problem that you could have had; so with that out of the way its just a matter of working your way through the rest of the machine. 

The Briggs engined version was my least favourite machine as the engine never seemed as well suited to the machine as the older Villiers / BSA F12 Sloper. The disengagement speed for the centrifugal main clutch was too near to the speed  Briggs struggled to pick up from. The clutch springs need to be in good condition and hopefully of the stronger pattern that were specified with the Briggs. They allowed the Briggs to idle at a speed from which  it could pick up from before the clutch engaged.

The traction clutch is disengaged by the handle bat lever acting via the cable to two push rods separated by a ball bearing running through the centre of the clutch. Those push rods may be seized.  The traction clutch may be dismantled without special tools but having or making a replica of the "official" adjustment tool will make reassembly and chain adjustment easier.

Just out of interest I tried to search about for Mk5 literature. Surprisingly slim pickins..

This enterprising bunch sell a copy for £13 of the illustrated parts manual -> https://www.agrimanuals.com/ransomes-grass-cutting-machine-marquis-mk5--mk5m-mower-parts-manual-18048-p.asp

And the Ipswich transport museum have one, but no idea if they would copy or allow to. -> https://discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/details/r/0502dc2f-7d8e-4c05-84eb-6b5c89409cae

The Jacobsen site may have something, but I find the site difficult to navigate

But as already stated if its largely based on the Mk4...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4fxtucb32dubes8/Ransomes%20Mq%20Mk5%20parts%2…

Thanks Chris, I've had little luck finding much on the Mk5. 

Much appreciated Wristpin. 

Okay, so I've had a go today of trying to get the cutting cylinder moving. It barely did even after unscrewing the adjusters fully. On one side the spring is heavily compressed to the point of starting to double back on itself, so I've left that for now.

Engine wise, I checked the oil, gave it a bit of fuel and tried to start it, though I knew it was highly unlikely to fire up. It didn't and testing for a spark gave nothing. 

Where should I go from here?

Thanks.

Sounds like you are on a bit of a learning curve.

Cutting cylinder. Page 8. Sounds as though the bearing carriers, 6 and 8 are seized on their lugs on the bottom blade block 1. They should pivot fairly freely under the action of the springs 5 and the adjuster screws 11.  Drop the whole cutter unit out and soak the joints between the carriers and the block with a penetrating oil ( not WD40) and work each carrier back and forth until they are free. You may also then need to remove the carriers from each end of the cutting cylinder. Another job for another day!

Spark. If the machine has a handle bar kill switch, disconnect it at the engine end and try again. No spark, you will probably have to strip the magneto and clean the points - if it has them. Looking the centre of the recoil starter and see if the label says Magnetron. If it doesn’t the chances are that the engine is pre electronic ignition. To double check, look at the blower housing ( engine shroud) for the words Model, Type,Code , stamped into the tin. The Code is the date of manufacture; if 80 or later the engine should be electronic /  Magnetron. If 79 or earlier it probably has points ignition. 

Come back to us with the MTC info and a decent image of the engine with the blower housing removed showing a close up of the ignition coil.

It sounds as though the adjuster pivots for the cutting cylinder may be seized if the springs are not expanding as you slacken the adjusters, try applying some leverage with a pry bar to open the gap between the cylinder and bottom blade. 

It would be helpful to post a few photos of your mower in particular the cutting cylinder, it is not unusual for the adjuster springs to be well compressed especially if the cylinder and bottom blade are badly worn but they should not be coil bound.

If you are unsure about what happens when and you are wanting to run the engine it would be sensible to remove the drive chains from the machine, that way you are safe from a runaway situation when it does fire up. Removing the chains will also assist with locating areas that are causing drag.

Re the Briggs and Stratton engine there should be a set of numbers stamped on the recoil starter housing. They take the form of a Model, Code and Serial number if you find those and post them we should be in a better position to give advice re the type of ignition fitted to your engine.

Edit:-

I think wristpin and I were tapping away at the same time but he pipped me to the post. He raises a few points that I had not thought of so better to have two replies to consider than none at all.

I tried to edit via our I pad when I first posted but got an on screen message from the forum that there was a problem try again later hence the time lag while I fired up a laptop.

Thanks Wristpin and Hillsider.

Yes I've not dealt with older petrol mowers at all so this is pretty new but I'm willing to learn and hopefully get this one running and mowing again if possible.

I'll look into getting that cylinder unstuck now I've gained some insight into it, thanks. 

Yes Hillsider, removing the chain may be a good idea just in case, which is another question in itself.  I'll come back soon with details on the engine codes and post some photos.

Thanks again.

I've got the Model, Type and code numbers, which are:

Model- 80432

Type 0574 01

Code- 73111203

Thanks.

Definitely points ignition. Your options are - remove the flywheel and clean / adjust the points Leave the flywheel in place and source a new or used magnetron coil that is a straight swap with yours. Leave the flywheel and coil in place and fit an after market electronic module - Meco or Nova.

If you elect to remove the flywheel you will need to unscrew (anti clockwise) the starter clutch. Ideally with the correct tool but can be done without,  WITH CARE . Don't break the lugs off  the clutch and don't break fins off the flywheel. With the clutch off DON'T hit the crankshaft extension with anything harder than a lead or copper hammer - preferably with a protector. Any distortion or spreading of the crank extension with result in recoil problems later.

Thanks Wristpin.

I was pretty sure it was a points system.

I'll carefully remove the starter clutch and flywheel and clean/adjust the points first. If that doesn't solve the issue I will take up one of the other options. Is the flywheel keyed so there's no problem with refitting in the correct position?

Thanks.

The flywheel is positioned by a soft ally key. Just positioned, clamped on its taper by the starter clutch being torqued to around 55 foot pounds  - memory!

I attempted to remove the starter clutch today but with no success.

Using an open ended spanner placed on the lug with a strip of rubber between to protect it, sharp knocks with a hammer did nothing. Knocks with a piece of wood also made no difference. I think I may buy the correct tool instead of potentially breaking the lugs off, unless there's a better way of doing it.

Here’s my 40 plus year old collection of flywheel removal tools. Even buying pattern ones won’t be cheap.

Give some thought to just replacing your coil with a used or new pattern part Magnetron coil.

Less than £20 and no special tools needed.

Thanks Wristpin.

I'll give it another go and if it doesn't work I'll definitely consider the electronic ignition option.