Clutch Removal Help

Hopefully you will hear from someone who has already done one .  Do you have access to a compressor and an air hammer gun ? In the absence of any info from someone who has done it , I’d spend a few days soaking with Plus Gas or PB Blaster , even making a modelling clay  reservoir that you can top up as it ( hopefully) soaks down the keyway etc. Then if you have or can borrow a zip gun, drop a drift into the crank so that it bottoms, and give it a blast while applying leverage on the pulley - two man job. Not mentioning heat a I think that I can see clutch shoe lining material.

Hopefully someone will come along who will say “ this is how i you do it “.

Can you remove the two socket head (Allen) bolts ? Would that help to remove any other part ? I would soak it in diesel for a few days and then heat it up with propane torch and see if that moves it. Do you know if it is on a taper shaft or straight shaft. If straight shaft then is there any way of pulling the key out ? Then you might be able to rotate the clutch when warmed up and gradually break the rust grip. Another possible way would be to support engine on the thick front plate  (just next to pulley)and then push on end of shaft in a hydraulic workshop press.

Mike.

Thinking on a bit, you could drill and tap a hole in the key and then put a bolt in it and pull it out with a slide hammer puller, or you could possibly just use a long threaded bolt with a tube and pull it out that way. Keys unfortunately often seem to be hammered in and don't like to be removed. I had one recently where I had to weld a fixing on a key in order to remove it and that was out of an engine and on the bench. It would not remove in a vice or any other way.

Mike.

Looking at those two empty 5/16  /  or 8mm holes . Could be anchors for a bi of plate to push on a bolt returned to the shaft . All depends on how the penetrating oil process goes!

I think that would be first call Wristpin, good thinking. He could refit the original centre bolt, but leave it undone a few turns and make a bridge plate with two plain holes out of a bit of solid steel, minimum 1/4" thick by 1  1/2" wide (approx). and longer than the distance between those two holes. Probably need a bit of heat at the same time. I guess once that is out ,then the two clutch segments would slide out once the allen head bolts are removed.

Mike.

I would make a puller that used the 2 existing threaded holes. A piece of steel bar drilled at the pitch of the threaded holes, 2 pieces of studding threaded into the holes, the existing centre bolt in the end of the crank. Place the bar over the studs nuts and washers on the studs, lubricate, and wind a bit of pressure on while applying some heat to the Boss of the clutch. Should shift it.

Hey Gents, 

Thanks for all your thoughts/ideas.

I did try some bolts from my random collection and although I can't remember the exact size (maybe 1/4") the threads just didn't match, I tried both unf and unc. I am just nervous about them not going in far enough and damaging the threads. 

I will have to replace the clutch /linings anyway if I can. 

Last night similar to  SparkyMike's suggestion I ordered some 400mm (x30x10) bars and 180mm bolts to act as a pusher on the crankshaft. Hoping that by using the engine mounting holes on the yellow plate I can force the crankshaft through the pulley assembly.

Will let you know how it goes, in the meantime I shall keep drowning it in plusgass & wd40.

Thanks again. 

Scott

Those tapped holes are probably BSF, or if coarse thread ,BSW, if machine is pre 70's., UNC would fit the BSW size.  Note. UNC only matches BSW on sizes 3/8" or under I believe.

I would follow Wristpin's advice first and use the tapped holes that are most probably there for the purpose of removal. Buy a couple of the bolts on Ebay, long enough for what you need . If you get nuts to fit the bolts, then you can use them for the pulling action if you get long enough bolts or studding. If the part you want to remove is cast iron, then if you bear down force on that it could break the pulley rim.

Hello, 

Thank you for your thoughts on the bolt/thread types, I have now ordered a selection of different ones to try.

Also noted the point about pulling the pulley off the shaft rather than pushing it through - I would not have considered that!

Thank you again for all your help, I will let you know how I progress when the parts turn up. 

Have a great weekend. 

Scott

When you have made up the bridge type extractor, when you tighten up the screws/nuts, if nothing shifts then give the middle of the thick bar that you made that is bearing on the shaft bolt, a sharp clout with a hammer and if the part you are removing is on a taper, then that tip might help you. I do a lot of work on classic cars and one tip that often works for me when using say a ball joint extractor, is to pour a kettle of boiling water on the part that has to come off. The joint expands just a fraction, but is often enough to remove parts. There is a product on the market that will freeze components for removal purposes. It is supplied in aerosol tins. It has worked for me on some items but not others. If using that method, then you would freeze the shaft, thus shrinking it a fraction.

Mike.

Good evening, 

The parts required arrived today and after work I started the process of pulling the clutch assembly off the crankshaft. I was/am staggered by how hard it was to get off and it did not release it's grip of the shaft until the last centimetre. 

So the clutch assembly is now off - hooray! But now for the life of me I cannot get the bolts out that I used as anchors, all rather frustrating! 

Guessing my options are to cut them off and drill them out (as they are now holding the clutch mechanism together), or try and find an aftermarket pulley / centrifugal clutch assembly. 

Do you guys have any other suggestions? 

Thank you for your thoughts as always. 

Scott

Hopefully they were not stainless steel bolts as these have a habit if seizing if anti seize lube is not used. I would carefully drill exactly down the center starting with say an 1/8" drill and see if you hit a void under the bolt. My guess is the bolt has jammed tight on the bottom of the hole. Drilling a hole down the middle might relieve it. Other method would be to warm up the complete item but try and to keep bolts cool. 

Mike.

Another method if all else fails would be to carry on drilling the 1/8" hole right through the item and then flip it over and drill up to the stuck bolt with a 5/16" drill. This might help to shift it.

Mike