Collection, Preservation and Display of Old Lawn Mowers
Evening all, would anybody be able to link me to operating instructions for an Atterton and Ellis Dual grinder please?
I've scoured the 'net to no avail
It helps if you know that Atterton and Ellis is now known as Bernhards ;-)
Fairly easy to use, care to post a picture of yours, this will help to date it.
Thanks Hortimech, yes I have looked at the Bernhard site. I can only find instructions for the newer models, mine is the old grey 'the dual' version. I know they're much of a muchness but thought I'd ask just in case they are around somewhere online
They went orangy-red in the early 80s and unless someone has upgraded it, it will not have the gauges in the handles. They are fairly easy to use, remove the bottom block, place machine on machine and clamp it down. Connect drive to cylinder, adjust stone to cylinder, start grindstone and slowly move it along the cylinder, checking the contact, adjust as required. Once you are happy with everything, adjust the traverse stops and start the traverse, then adjust the stone contact with the large hand wheels, adjust each the same amount.
That it basically, but there is a lot more to it than that, you have to try and not grind a taper into the cylinder (actually, as a cylinder naturally wears tapered, you need to grind the taper out). When setting the traverse stops, you turn on the cylinder ends, mostly because the framesides normally get in the way.
Do you have the loose cylinder grinding attachment ?
Any questions, please ask, I have used the Dual all my working life, along with the Anglemaster bottom blade grinder.
Thanks very much Hortimech, much appreciated.
is the way forward to leave the cylinder in the machine then? I had visions of removing the cylinder but now I think about it is that why the grinder is designed like it is - table style, so you can put the mower on top?
Yes, the 'Dual' is what is known as an 'insitu' cylinder grinder, you can grind the cylinder in the chassis or 'loose' if you have the required kit, hence why it is called the 'Dual'. You place the mower on the machine and either clamp the front roller down or it is retained by the front cover (depending on how old your grinder is) and then a bar pivots up from the back and clamps the mower.
It might help if you can post some pictures of your grinder and any attachments you have.
Aha, understood, thank you !
i will happily post a pic when I can get a decent photo, it's buried in the garage behind a tractor at the moment.
re the other bits yes I have about 15 collets and the end piece for free cylinder grinding, there's no clamp from the back however, at least I don't think there is
Ready to go...
OK, that is an early version, but it looks like some of it has been replaced at some point (the orange bits). Do you have an object that has a pulley built into it, that will take a drive rod down the middle ? There is a rubber flex built into it (this is horrible trying to describe something). It replaces the large orange object driven by the belt in your top picture and actually fits into the motor assembly, it is what drives the cylinder if you are grinding a mower insitu (I think Bernhards call it inframe grinding).
yes I have that bit and a few spares with the machine too, it seems to run very nicely actually and I'm pleased with it. Unfortunately due to the relatively confined space I have at the moment I have no option but to put it against the wall, so I probably won't be doing much in situ grinding, unless I take the handlebars off the machine!
re bb grinders, do you have any experience of the A and E Ledger, FH1 I think? I'd like an anglemaster but they seem to be few and far between at a price I can afford..
There is only one definitive answer to your quest,email Peter Hampton,past chairman of olc.He was a territory manager for Bernhards.
They do work well and being able to insitu grind machines does speed things up. I have insitu ground Toro Spartan gangs, Jacobsen gangs and even Ransomes Mastiff's.
Never used a ledger BB grinder, but I have heard good reports about them, but the Anglemaster is hard to beat, especially if you can find a later version with the traverse, saves having to stand there and push the carriage backwards and forward.
Thanks for the replies guys!!