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Collection, Preservation and Display of Old Lawn Mowers

Help with a Maxees Mk3 Re-build


I dont want to be that new guy asking for help immediatly, but.........



OK I'm John just acquired my first vintage lawnmower.

Basically my Qualcast push along stopped working last week so I had a look and was shocked to find the cogs connecting the wheels to the blade were plastic ! and Stripped!


So after Screwfix luckily being out of stock of the Webb push along, I was browsing fleabay and bought a JP Maxees Mk3, which while it cuts of a fashion, most certainly does not pass the paper test and is more ripping grass than cutting.


I intend to re-build it but for now just need a lawnmower I can use so while trying to figue out the bottom blade movement, trying to free it up and getting to the point where I want to remove the side to clean and lubricate, I'm stuck not being able to get the blade out.


Have got to the point where I take off the bearing cover, but cannot figure out how to get the side off.

Basically I want to free the bottom blade for adjustment, but as far as I can see rather than pivoting, it seems to slide doen the grass deflector, and I thinink thats where the rust is holding it.

I know someone on here wrote a document of how to strip the mower and re-bulild and I would be so grateful if anyone could help me with such instructions!

My neighbour had to cut out lawn with a flymo and I dont know how much more I can take!!!

Thanks so much



Antbr123 Sun, 11/07/2021

Hello John,

Well firstly, Henry Ellis and I are the guys who wrote the guide - so contact me and I can send a unpublished version.  Contact details in the members section.

The first thing to understand is that there are two key mechanisms to setting the blades on a Maxees.  First - the red knob on the top tie bar adjusts the cylinder blades down onto the bottom blade.  Secondly, the bottom blade must be parallel to the rotating cylinder blades which is achieved through an eccentric adjustment screw.  This can be found on the right had side frame of the cutter unit and is normally brass/silver coloured with a large slot.  Turning this screw adjusts the parallelism of the bottom blade.

If you look closely at the bottom of the grass deflector you will find a bottom tie bar which sits in two slots at either end of the cast iron bottom blade carrier.  The blade carrier must be allowed to move up and down the machined flat faces of the tie bar ends as you turn the eccentric screw.  If it doesn't it is probably rusty in the two slots of the blade carrier.  To free this off requires a total strip down of the cutter unit.  These two slots should be greased so the tie bar slides controllably as the eccentric screw is turned.

The other area to check is the actual eccentric screw itself.  It must rotate and again can rust onto the side frame. Oil liberally and work it free with a large blade screwdriver. You should see the flat plate behind the screw rising and falling as the screw is turned.  Here are a couple of photos to help.

Get back to me if you have problems.