Suffolk Punch (Sorry...)
Evening all, I'm fairly new here, but have been playing round with old mowers for nearly 10 years now.
Last week, I picked up a very early 14" Suffolk Punch, Mk1A engine, probably 1st year of production, however unfortunately the casting that sits behind the blade is badly broken and my attempts at welding it have distorted it. The issue is that the casting seems to be substantially different from most regular 14" Punches. Initially I assumed this was because it was very early, however I have noticed that most regular Punches do not seem to have the microset adjustment that mine has.
Does anyone have the parts diagram out of a 14" Punch manual, that has the microset adjustment. I am hoping that it is the same part, which will narrow down my sources for it.
Even better, do anyone have any detailed photos of the casting that holds the bottom blade on a 14" microset Suffolk Punch?
Just for your interest
Looks like to have the micro set adjustment the chassis (but maybe not the engine) is a 1960 Mk 1V or a '62 Mk V.
Anyway, hope that this image may help.
Well it might if the forum would accept a pdf file! Will have to dropbox it and post later!
In passing , anyone with an Apple device that has been upgraded to the iOS8 operating system may find that they can no longer upload images to this and other forums !!
No, the machine in the video doesn't have microset roller adjustment and I actually think that the machine and engine are contemporary and date from sometime in the mid fifties, which makes it as old as me!
I worked on one or two of these when I first started as an apprentice lawnmower mechanic back in the early seventies, but they were rare even then.
Loosing the plot a bit here! Thought that you were asking for a pic of a machine with microset. Anyway here is one for the Series 1 and 1a of 1954/5 and the series 11 of 1956.
As far as your distorted sole plate goes, how bad is it? Can you not shim the blade to approximately level and then get it skimmed true? I had a badly distorted Atco 24 sole plate once and removed the blade, mounted it upside down under the grinder and skimmed it true before remounting the blade and skimming it in situ for good measure - perfect result!
This may be clearer
Am I getting confused??? (Probably...)
I thought that the microset adjustment referred to the method of adjusting the proximity of the cutting cylinder to the bottom blade, with the two nuts sticking up out of the pressed steel "deck" (Which both my 17" Punches have, but I haven't seen it on many 14" ones on ebay)
Is it instead a case that "microset" refers to the method of adjusting the front roller height?
If so, then ignore my comments about "microset"
What I am after is the casting labeled "45" in either of Wristpin's diagrams (Thanks for those, they are very helpful) If you compare this to the casting in the parts book of later Suffolk Punches, this is substantially different. I have looked at repairing my broken one, and I reckon it is doable, but will take a lot of time to do it DIY and I can't afford to have it done professionally. I would prefer to find a new casting if possible.
Thanks for all your help
OK, all microset comments ignored LOL, yes it does refer to setting the height of cut, yours doesn't have it.
Any chance of a photo of the broken bottom block/sole plate ??
We may be able to advise if it is repairable and if so how.
This may be of use/interest
A thought about your pin holed fuel filler -You could sleeve it internally so that nothing shows from outside?
Hortimech, hopefully this will work!
I reckon I can fix it, with a straight edge, some engineers blue and an angle grinder with flap disk, to get it roughly right, then shim the bottom blade to get it spot on. However, I'd much prefer to find a replacement if possible.
From what I can see, you are doing alright already, as for finding a replacement, well it is not going to be easy, you will have to find something for a machine that is over 40 yrs old. It may be easier to find another 14 inch punch, but be careful, the cutter unit was different in later types.
If, as it appears in the photos, the block is solid, then just clean it up, remove the bottom blade and fit a new one and get this ground, though you may have to shim the blade ends if it is badly bowed, check with a straight edge.
Just one last question, how did it get broken that badly ??