timing and points on A98 Suffolk super punch
In an earlier thread i said i had managed to get going my A98 super punch which has an alloy block engine... Well the other day it decided to give up the ghost IE no spark and after removing the cowling and removing the fly wheel, I decided to buy some new points as the old ones looked decidedly old and ropey! The wiring going to the old points looks very dodgy with solder and I'm sure it is not supposed to be like this at all....need to know what the gap is for points? and can i improve the ignition timing at all? and what should be fitted to the twin terminals on the new points ie soldered or a spade fitting?
this is my A98 Suffolk super punch
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thank you for all the info i
thank you for all the info i shall have ago at this on the weekend ...and with luck it should run ...coincidentally i have just ordered a timing wheel from eBay ... I have never used one before but want to learn could you explain please on its use
Electrically a soldered joint
Electrically a soldered joint is as good as you will get but not so convenient for a component that may need to be removed.
Your "twin terminals " are designed to be crimped around the wire from the coil and also that from the condenser if fitted although I suspect that your A98 will have the later coil with the condenser built in. So just "tin" the wire from the coil with solder to thicken it and then fold those "horns" around it and crimp them tight.
On this magneto one of the claws is gripping the insulation of the wire from the coil while the other is gripping the conductor and has then been soldered for good measure.
The points gap for an A98 is 18 thou . If you have removed the points without disturbing the plate to which they are fixed (the stator plate) you will not have altered the timing but if you have it is 23-25 degrees before Top Dead Centre of the piston on the compression stroke. Quite often the manufacturer will have put centre punch or chisel marks on the edge of the stator plate and one of its supports to indicate that position or the stator's holding down bolts may have left "shadow" marks around their slots that can be used to realign the plate. Failing that to get accurate timing it will be necessary to re-time the ignition from scratch - or take a flyer and position the bolts midway in the slots!
Re- timing from scratch!
Edit
Coincidentally have just pulled another engine apart and its stator has a notch in it not lining up with one on the mounting pillar but with an "imaginary" line across the centre of the adjacent fixing bolt . Have inked this one in to illustrate.