Qualcast 43SL - My first cylinder

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hillsider
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That's good re the cylinder

That's good re the cylinder only resting on the vice.

Like wristpin I have never had a problem with keeping the bottom blade nut in place, If you tip the mower backwards rather than tipping it right over the nuts should stay in the holders by gravity but if you are really concerned about them falling out then a dollop of grease is a good suggestion, alternatively you may be able to hold them with a drop of mastic or epoxy glue.

Chris G
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Thanks Gents, was over

Thanks Gents, was over thinking a problem that wasn't there..

I've ordered this paint for some of the bad panels, bottom blade and the like, not sure how it will blend in colour wise if I leave some of the better panels original. Should have asked here first.

Spray may have been a better option also..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Qualcast-35S-Lawnmower-Paint-250ml/1126529264...

 

Chris G
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I did not check the cylinder

I did not check the cylinder adjustment to bottom blade prior to removing and getting resharpened. Having refitted and adjusted per book close to the bottom blade evenly along the length of the cylinder, I now find that the cutter drive chain is very tight, with the tensioner not even touching the chain I am getting hardly any play in the chain, certainly not half inch for sure with no tensioing - any ideas? I had the cut height adjusted to the very top, lowering that has put the chain back into normal tension.

Also (not started in the garage on carpet tiles) with the clutch lever fully released, the roller is very stiff to move forward and does not rotate at all pulling the mower backward - is this normal?

Many thanks

 

 

 

wristpin
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No, should be fairly free to

No, should be fairly free to move in either direction. Test by removing the belt and seeing if it rolls freely . If it's then free ,  hopefully only needs finessing the belt adjustment or cleaning corrosion from the faces of the pulley "Vs". Page 6 of the Operating Instructions that I posted a while back refers to the adjustments.

If the roller is stiff with no belt in place it will be necessary to investigate by removing the RH chassis side plate and checking out the roller and pinion bearings and the relationship between the pinion and ring gear. Page 10. 

 

 

Chris G
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Thanks for that, just removed

Thanks for that, just removed the belt and its the same, so maybe yet another component is seized. When I refurbed the belt jockie assembly it did move forward when started, but obviously somethings not right. I will check out the roller assembly - there was quite a lot wrong with this :-)

Chris G
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Well it wasn't one thing, it

Well it wasn't one thing, it was every mating surface where there should not be friction, was in fact gummed, dried, rusted..

I could partner the bastard thing in come dancing now :-) floating around like a good un !

Thanks again.

 

wristpin
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Well, at least the nylon

Well, at least the nylon pinion wasn't chewed up so be thankful for small mercies. On the plus side you have a fully overhauled machine ready for the new season. Just don't fall victim to stale fuel while waiting for the off !!

Chris G
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I will make sure it will be

I will make sure it will be fresh fuel after the effort on the tank and carb for sure!

Now the rear is rolling so well, I took the front roller off… more to do, more advice please..

Is the front roller spindle supposed to be straight along the length? I am guessing yes, this is bowed, annoyingly not dead in the middle….

Is the front roller spindle supposed to be the same diameter along the length? Again I am guessing yes but some of the corroded areas are more than 1mm higher..

The sum of the parts pictured are off the front spindle, I’m a bit confused with the parts diag as to what is “auxiliary” and what should be in place – I still feel I am missing some parts?

As much as I have been saving nuts and bolts, the end nuts are going in the bin and need to run a die on the rod ends..

Many thanks

Chris G
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wristpin
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Should be straight and of

Should be straight and of constant diameter.  "Auxiliary" refers to the high cut configuration with just one short roller at each end and a spacer in between. Sometimes came with the machine but at others was an "extra" or used as a "giveaway" by the marketing department. 

lix
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Thanks for posting this eBay

Thanks for posting this eBay information. I have a Suffolk Super Punch which looks very similar in the running gear and main engine side, I just don’t have electronic ignition (your posh lol!). I have taken the engine and carburetor apart over winter and done a well earned service and now runs like a little dream, but next year I’ll be doing all the blade and running gear so I’ve kept the eBay details you posted, thanks.

One tip I can give you though, since mine was seized, is to have a look at the engine centrifugal clutch. You only need to remove the clutch cover guard, remove the four engine mounting bolts and slide the engine out slightly. The two centrifugal weighted pads can be dusty (from use) and the weighted arm pivots dry. So I worked in some penetrating fluid and they aren’t binding now, so my blades don’t spin up on tick over. 

Keep up the great pictures. Alex

wristpin
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If you mean that the cylinder

If you mean that the cylinder  rotates  at tick over rpm it is a mite too high. Should be stationary until the revs are raised a bit.

Chris G
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I have used the Mountfield

I have used the Mountfield rotary to get the first couple of cuts in this year. Then I used the Suffolk Punch for the first time yesterday after the winter overhaul. Fresh fuel, choke on, started 1st pull and purring away off choke. My lawns not ideal for a rotary, undulates a bit, but I was very impressed with the power, great cut and stripes :-) (never had a cylinder mower)

I'm finishing off a little Honda 250 motorbike rebuild which will leave the shed & me short of a next project.

My aged folks mower (which I have to use to cut thier lawns)  is a rotary which is way too small for their garden Any recommendations on what I should be keeping my eye out for as next mower project ? Could take the easy route and get another poorly 43 I guess...

wristpin
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You don’t mention the width

You don’t mention the width of their rotary but If you fancy something different,  but the same width as your 43 an older Suffolk Super Punch 17” might fit the bill. Not quite as user friendly as your 43 as they don’t have an independent clutch to the roller, just the centrifugal one for when mowing and a dog clutch for moving it about with the engine off. Also heavier, but they sit down on the lawn and give a nice cut. 

If you fancy moving a bit up market an 18” Ransomes Marquis cylinder mower won’t disappoint but if it’s to be a rotary, a 19” Hayter Harrier  may be worth consideration.

Chris G
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Thanks as always Angus, I

Thanks as always Angus, I will start a new topic, the idea of the Marquis 18 has me!

To close this one, a picture of the first cut with a work in progress garden according to my wife....( I will drop that drain cover soon honestly :-) )

 

Chris G
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Supergrass
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The Ransomes 18" Marquis is

The Ransomes 18" Marquis is an excellent mower, especially when powered by the smooth BSA sloper engine.It also is a great sounding engine.

Chris G
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I have one in my sights, but

I have one in my sights, but I think it will surpass my budget, here's hoping!

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