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Collection, Preservation and Display of Old Lawn Mowers

Qualcast Classic Petrol 35s

Having enjoyed great success with the 1966 Webb Standard, it is time to reveal project #2. 
Now why didn't I find these earlier this year / last year during lock-down

So we have....

The fuel system is bone dry, it took quite some time to get any fuel to appear in the fuel pipe and the carb bowl remains dry. 
Weak spark - but at least there is a spark. 
It's shows a lot more corrosion / deterioration than the Webb and right now the resting screws are seized so I cannot release the cassette.


R1sahoot Mon, 13/09/2021

Ooooh it's looking like this ones going to be ugly....

The fuel inlet to carb is all scaled up.

the bowl is heavily corroded 

throttle mechanism is stuck 

whats that little micro switch on the throttle ? 

wristpin Mon, 13/09/2021

Seen as bad, but all doable including the corrosion etc around the cassette in your first image . As far as freeing steel to alloy fixings goes, Plus Gas is the preferred freeing liquid over any of the multi purpose maintenance sprays such as WD40. A home brew of brake/ATF with acetone is useful.

The " micro switch" is the "kill switch" that earths the ignition to stop the engine - always assuming that it runs !   

R1sahoot Mon, 13/09/2021

So throttle cable is rusted to its sleeve have spent afternoon working it back and forward and soaking it in pen oil. 

float is seized / rusted in place

soaking screws hourly in pen oil hoping I can liberate the cassette, I believe it is possible to remove the roller and get at the back of these. 

cannot release screws holding drive shaft in place 

so does the micro switch connect to anything on the throttle mechanism ( there is a curled wire hook sticking out ) or does it simply get pushed back and forward ( I really need to get to multimeter out and test its function) 

unlike the Webb this is  going to need more than 8hrs of effort ho ho ho 

R1sahoot Mon, 13/09/2021

In last post I referred to "drive shaft" I actually meant "drive shaft cover".

also struggling with pull start cover apart from the two on top is there anything else I need to remove undo in order to release this ? 

wristpin Mon, 13/09/2021

The curly bit of wire is "live" to the electronic ignition module (no points or condenser) and the mechanical throttle/governor linkage touches it when the throttle is moved to the stop position. 

R1sahoot Wed, 15/09/2021

Ok so activities have halted momentarily as the controller of free thought decreed that we must visit other nations, lay on beaches and drink beer with unusual names. 
Back in 10 days ….

R1sahoot Mon, 27/09/2021

Just returned from having to endure 10 days of the above.

Back now and after a couple of hours cleaning and smartening up the engine.
Have fitted a new air filter and plug and it runs !


R1sahoot Mon, 27/09/2021

Rusty (seized) throttle cable that I left soaking in PenOil 10 days ago has freed off lovely. 
The engine stop  "micro switch" also working reliably. 

Now about that "cassette" 

Floydism Tue, 28/09/2021

That looks like it's going to be a pig as far as welding goes, it's probably more rust than steel, I'd bet there'd be an awful lot of pin-holes if you attacked it with a wire-brush, you'd forever be chasing holes with the torch.

Making a replacement is probably the only sensible way to go, how are your tin-bashing skills? you could probably do without the swaged stiffeners as they're very difficult to do nicely even if you've got the appropriate machinery. (but do-able for the intrepid DIYer)  but the rest would be fairly simple to replicate. If you've not got a sheet-brake handy you can make a bender from a couple of bits of angle and a vice/clamps with a piece of wood and a hammer to gently tease a nice sharp bend into it. and gradually curving it over a scaff-pole would get you the bulk of the shape.

R1sahoot Tue, 28/09/2021

An interesting few hours today. 
Engine is starting 1st pull, needs an oil change but there's no sign of any water contamination, not sure why there are two ports, one with a dipstick ( below the carb) and one (narrower) on the other side of the engine. Is it a Kawasaki engine ? 

Regarding corrosion... I am now at a junction, as correctly observed it is starting to look like a pig. I removed the roller this afternoon to unearth more ugly corrosion, I have spent next to nothing (and very little time ) getting the engine  running reliably and looking mint but the main chassis and "cassette" are another story. 
Will post some photos tomorrow morning together with my thoughts re; next steps. 


wristpin Tue, 28/09/2021

If you don’t fancy the tin bashing the deflector is still available, F016103707. £20+vat